Cosmeceuticals | Proposed mechanism of action |
Antioxidants | |
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) | Reduces transepidermal water loss, inhibits melanosome transfer, and increases collagen production |
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) | Protects from UVA-induced oxidative damage |
Coenzyme Q10 | Protects from UVA-induced oxidative damage, suppresses the expression of UVA-induced collagenase |
Vitamin E | Reduces UV-induced erythema |
Retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde, oxoretinoids | Reduce matrix metalloproteinases, promote collagen production |
Alpha-lipoic acid | Acts as a scavenger of reactive oxygen species, prevents lipid peroxidation, has anti-inflammatory properties, and acts as an exfoliant |
Hydroxyacids | |
Alpha-hydroxy acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid) Beta-hydroxy acids (salicylic acid) | Reduce corneocyte adhesion, increase exfoliation, improve stratum corneum hydration |
Plant extracts | |
Green tea polyphenolic epicatechins | Inhibit UV-induced erythema, reduce the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers, have antioxidant properties |
Soy isoflavones (genistein and daidzein) | Act as antioxidants and phytoestrogens, inhibit UV-stimulated production of matrix metalloproteinase and melanosome transfer to keratinocytes |
Grape seeds (polyphenols) | Have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, promote wound healing |
Coffee berry (polyphenols, flavonoids, and flavonol glycosides) | Has antioxidant properties |
Ginkgo biloba (polyphenols, flavonoids, and flavonol glycosides) | Stimulate fibroblast proliferation and collagen production |
Ginseng (ginsenosides) | Has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties |
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