Action | Mechanism of action | Indication | Examples | Comments |
Occlusive | Blocks transepidermal water loss Barrier | Xerosis Atopic dermatitis Prevention of irritant contact dermatitis | Petrolatum Zinc oxide Lanolin Mineral oil Silicones | Messy, comedogenic Cosmetically unacceptable May cause folliculitis (mineral oil) or contact dermatitis (lanolin) |
Humectant | Attracts water to stratum corneum | Xerosis Ichthyosis | Urea Alpha hydroxy acids Glycerin Sorbitol Lactic acid | May cause irritation (urea, lactic acid) |
Emollient | Smooths skin | Decrease skin roughness | Cholesterol Squalene Fatty acids | Not always effective |
Replacement of deficiencies in "raw materials" of the intact stratum corneum | Claims to replenish essential skin components | Possibly skin rejuvenation | Ceramides, natural moisturizing factor | May improve skin moisturization and barrier function, but unproven |
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